Pasta Carbonara: A WWII Mash-Up of Italian Tradition and American Rations

Few pasta dishes stir as much debate as carbonara. Ask ten Italians how to make it, and you’ll get twelve opinions — but the one thing everyone agrees on is that it’s rich, silky, and deeply satisfying. Its history, however, is surprisingly recent and rooted in the chaos of World War II.

The wartime pantry problem

By 1944, Allied forces had liberated Rome, but the city was struggling with food shortages. U.S. military rations included powdered eggs and bacon — items that were unusual in Italian cooking at the time. Roman cooks, ever resourceful, began combining these ingredients with their own pasta, black pepper, and hard cheeses like Pecorino Romano.

This marriage of American ingredients and Italian technique created a dish that was hearty, easy to prepare, and irresistibly flavorful. Some culinary historians argue that carbonara may have evolved from older central Italian dishes using cured pork and eggs, but the WWII story remains the most widely accepted explanation for its sudden appearance.

Why it spread so fast

After the war, bacon was replaced with guanciale (cured pork jowl) when available, and fresh eggs took the place of powdered ones. The sauce’s luxurious creaminess came entirely from egg yolks and cheese — no cream, despite what many modern recipes call for. By the 1950s, carbonara was appearing on menus across Italy, and by the 1960s, it was an international sensation.

Then vs. now

• Then: Always made with guanciale, Pecorino Romano, egg yolks, and black pepper. No cream, garlic, onions, or other additions.

• Now: Many home cooks use pancetta or bacon instead of guanciale, often add cream for stability, and sometimes throw in peas, mushrooms, or other vegetables — much to the dismay of purists.

Why the original works so perfectly

• The rendered pork fat coats the pasta, helping the egg and cheese emulsify into a luscious sauce.

• Black pepper adds heat and complexity.

• Simplicity means every ingredient must be top quality.

Traditional Roman Carbonara

Ingredients

• 400g spaghetti or rigatoni

• 150g guanciale, diced

• 4 large egg yolks

• 100g Pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated

• Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook pasta until just al dente. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water.

2. In a skillet over medium heat, cook guanciale until crisp and the fat has rendered. Remove from heat.

3. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks, Pecorino Romano, and a generous amount of black pepper.

4. Drain pasta and add to the skillet with guanciale, tossing to coat in the fat.

5. Remove skillet from the heat completely before adding egg mixture, stirring quickly to prevent scrambling.

6. Add reserved pasta water a little at a time until a creamy sauce forms.

7. Serve immediately with more Pecorino and black pepper on top.